Waist band construction



S. E. MILLER WAIST BAND CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 30, 1962 lNvENToR Samuel)JVIz'llr Atty United States Patent O "ice 3,155,986 Vl/AEST BANDCONSTRUCTlN Samuel E. Miller, Wilrnette, Ill., assigner to Quick ServiceTextiles, inc., Chicago, lll., a corporation of Iliinois Filed Nov. 3u,1962., Ser. No. 241,218 6 Claims. (Cl. 2--236) This invention relates towaist bands as used in connection with articles of wearing apparel suchas trousers, walking shorts, skirts, girdles, ibrassieres `and the like.ln particular it has relation to a stiffening element of novel characterto lend a moderate, i.e. comfortable, degree of rigidity to the waistband region of the garment.

It is well recognized that an edge portion of such garments, `whenunreinforced -against the occurrence, will tend, in many cases, to rollor curl outwardly, especially in the case of persons who are fleshy inthe waist. Such behavior is `sometimes referred to as roll-over. The netresult is unsightly `and embarrassing.

My invention specifically relates `to a waist band to be secured `to theinside of the garment i.e., the shell thereof, .adjacent an edge portion`as `an integral part thereof, and which is provided with a stiffeningelement forming -a component thereof or intimately associated therewithto resist the tendency of such edge portion of the garment to roll orcurl outwardly, although capable of being incorporated, per se, with thegarment. The invention is to be differentiated from those meanstherefore known which `are intended for a related purpose Iand whichconsist of a pocket or pockets at the waist band into which sections ofstitfening material are removably inserted.

Regarding the invention in one exempliiicative environment, it isrecognized that waistband material as such is usually fabricated inrunning lengths of substantial yardage which `are supplied to thegarment manufacturer who will cut the same to :the specific lengthsrequired for a particular size of waist, or who will sew the waistbandto the garments in succession and then cut the same. `in one aspect Ithepresent inprovement incorporates the stiffening element into the waistband, or other marginal portion of the article of wea-ring 'apparelduring its fabrication, 'as yard goods so that the garment manufactureris relieved of the problem of providing pockets of specitied size toreceive a rigidifying part or parts as in one older practice. -InasmuchAas such part or parts involve difficulties when the garment is cleanedor laundered and then pressed they have been generally made removable.Consequently, either the owner, Athe dry cleaner or the laundry isburdened with the responsibility of removing the same from the garment,identifying it in some way land then re-inserting the same in the pocketor pockets. It has been known to provide a flat strip of plasticcomposition as part of ya waist band to increase its rigidity. However,the same will not resist the tendency of the edge of the garment to curlor roll outwardly, will cut into the wearers flesh and soon fails bycracking and parting.

Other objects are `to provide ya stitfening feature `as part of an edgeportion of an larticle of wearing apparel which is so pre-formed as topreclude roll-over and will retain such formation during the useful lifeof the article; which is proof against dry cleaning, laundering andpressing operations; which need not be removed and replaced; which addsimperceptibly to the thickness of the edge portion; which issufficiently flexible in a circumferential direction as to conformreadily to the wearers body; which is undetectable in use land thereforecom fortable; which may be incorporated in presently known constructionswith little or no change therein or in the machines used for fabricatingthe same; which utilizes as raw materials for the stirfening elementthose which are 3,155,935 Patented Nov. 10, 1954 commercially available;and which adds only trifiingly to the cost of the article.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent fromthe ensuing description. which, taken with the accompanying drawing,discloses certain preferred forms in which the principles of theinvention may be embodied in practice.

in the drawing:

FIG. l shows, in perspective, a portion of a garment with -a relatedpor-tion of a waistband incorporating the invention secured thereto;

FIG. 2 is ia Vertical cross-section taken on the line 2-2 of FlG. 1showing one mode of incorporating the stiffening element in thewaistband assembly;

FIG. 3 is a view similar to FIG. 2 showing `another mode;

FIG. 4 is a partial, perspective view of one form of stiffening element;and

FIGS. 5, 6, 7 `and 8 are partial, perspective views of alternative formsof such element.

While the invention refers to stiffening means incorpo rated with awaist band, it is `to ybe understood that, in its essential aspects, itis not to be regarded as limited by a strict definition of these words.Forl example, `an under-garment such ias `a girdle or brassiere,:terminates in an edge portion hugging a body region roughlycorrespending `to the waist. Further, it will be understood that theword waist is incapable of exact definition in terms of the human torso.Accordingly where, in this specification, `l employ the words wais-t,Iwaist band, or words of similar import, the `same are to be regarded asincluding those parts of a garment having a free edge portion which lissubject to transverse curling or rolling by `virtue of the longitudinaltension of the fabric acting alone or co-acting with the flesh of thewearer.

Nor is the invention to be understood as limited by the nature of thewaistband exclusive of the stiffening element. Those familiar with thisVart are aware that wais-tband material sold as yard goods, as well asthose privately manufactured for internal use, usually lconsist oflayers of fabric folded and sewed together in various arrangements.Thus, the stiffening element of the invention may be interposed betweentwo layers of the Waistband or exposed as an inner or outer layer.

Broadly regarded, the invention comprehends the incorporation with anedge portion of an article of wearing apparel eg., a conventionalwaistband, of a stitfening element secured thereto, as by sewing, andextending along the waistband, either over the entire extent thereof orover only approximately that portion over which the useful function isprincipally realized, e.g. the front half of a pair of trousers. Thiselement comprises some resilient, yet generally shape-retaining materialto which an inwardly concave transverse cross-section has been impartedover a part or all of the width thereof. In a preferred form, andregarding the invention construction as referred to a pair of trousers,an upper longitudinal region of the element is curved coneavely inwardlyof the garment with a permanent set so that, by reason of the resiliencyof the element the tendency of the top margin of the trousers to curl orroll outwardly of the wearer is effectively pre eluded or neutralized.To this end an upper edge pord tion of the element is positioned withinan inwardly folded adge portion of the shell of the garment, eg. thewaist of a pair of trousers. The amount and shape of initial j curvatureof the element is established somewhat empirically in order to beeffective under a wide range of conditions, some factors being theinherent rigidity of the upper margin of the trousers as implemented bythe waistband exclusive of the element, the resiliency available as aresult of adding the element and the deformation irnt; parted to theelement as its circumferential aspect is asl sumed.

In modified forms the transverse cross section of the element is ashallow, S-shapcd curve or simply inwardly concave over the whole widththereof.

In order to avoid the objectionable effects of perspiration andcrepitation the element is desirably rendered perforate as by using awoven, netted or knitted fabric or a plastic or other strip punched to`provide apertures. Fabric is preferred since the same is then moreexpeditiously incorporated with the remainder of the waist band.

Where, for convenience and conciseness, reference is made to an articleof wearing apparel7 the words are intended to encompass items notordinarily thought of as appareL such as undergarments.

Reverting'to the drawing I have shown, by way of example a portion 10 ofa garment, eg. a pair of trousers in which, for convenience ofexposition and illustration, the lining of the trousers has beenomitted. As will be understood the upper edge of the shell of thegarment is turned over to form a hem 12 and the waistband 13 is sewedthereto in any well known manner. Usually the upper edge of the waistband is substantially coincident with the upper edge of the shell. Inthe example one layer 14 of the waistband together with a stiffeningelement 15 is laid in the hem, another layer I7 of the waistband' islaid over the hem and a row or rows of stitches 21 is employed to securethe several layers of fabric together (FIG. 2). Some times another layeror layers of fabric are added, eg. the folded layers 22 and 24. Theassociated rows of stitching are 21, just referred to, and 26. However,it is to be understood that the particular assembly forming thewaistband, exclusive of the stilfening element, takes many forms inpractice, the one shown being only typical. Moreover, the kind or kindsof material used for the waistband, exclusive of the stilfening element,is capable of wide variation depending upon the customersspecifications. In other cases the components of the waist band may befabricated as a unit and supplied in strips or continuous lengths to besecured to the garment. Thus the waistband assembly is secured to thegarment in a manner yielding the inherent function thereof.

The stiffening element 1S comprises a strip of perforate, resilientmaterial, e.g. Woven, mono-filament nylon of adequate body for thestitfening function, formed by heat to provide the transversecross-section seen best in FIG. 4. In this case approximately the upperone-third of the transverse dimension is provided with an inwardlyconcave curve in which the offset of the top end of the principal planeof the fabric is such as to counteract the tendency of the hem 12 tocurl or roll outwardly. Such offset will vary depending upon theinherent stiffness exhibited by the shell fabric and the waist band, amore pliable fabric and Waist band requiring more counteracting springforce than one which is less pliable. Regarde-:l as a separate articleof manufacture the inwardly concave curvature of the stiffening elementmay also be described as concave on the inner face and convex on theouter face, i.e., as concavo-convex.

In a commercial form and referring to FIG. 2, the stitfening element isformed from a blank strip ll/s wide with a curved portion extending fromapproximately the longitudinal midline to an edge. The radius of the arcis approximately 1l and the angle subtended by the arc is approximatelyIt is to be noted that the arc will always subtend an angle of somewhatless than 90 and will not be returned upon itself, unless a foldedelvage is employed. Prior to incorporation with a garment, the strip maybe regarded as essentiallystraight. As thus considered, the curvedportion is essentially a longitudinal segment of a cylindrical surfaceto the axis of which the subtending angle may be referred. The fabricconstituting the foregoing example is woven of monofilament nylon havinga gauge in both directions of approximately 40 threads to the inch.

Nylon fabric is preferred since the same is not only readily availablecommercially in various meshes and gauges of yarn, but is heat settable.Moreover, such fabric is so resilient that it will accept abnormalforces of torsion, compression and tension, such as could occur inlaundering and dry cleaning processes, and restore itself to theoriginal form with no evidence of creasing or folding. Prior to beingformed in suitable heated dies or rollers to the required transversecontour, the strips are preferably cut from yard goods with a hot knifewhereby the raw, cut ends are fused into a selvage rendering the stripsproof against raveling. However, woven strips with a selvage will serveequally well. The stiffening material as thus produced is incorporatedwith the remaining components of the waist band as shown at 15 in FIGS.l and 2. The stitfening element may be between layers of the waist bandas shown or may be located to the inside (FIG. 3) or outside thereof. Aseparate row of stitches 20 may be used to bind the fabric 14 to theelement 15 or the row 21 may be availed of.

Another type of fabric suitable for the element 15 is haircloth, inwhich the warp consists of any desired yarn, e.g. cotton, and the Woofof horsehair. As is known, horsehair is heat-settable and, therefore,the desired transverse curvature may be imparted to the stifleningelement by means of heated dies of the necessary shape. Fabricscomprising other natural or synthetic heat-settable threads, e.g.polyethylene or polypropylene, in the Woof only or in both the Warp andWoof are satisfactory as long as they possess the desired resiliency,are capable of being formed to the desired curvature, will maintain suchcurvature during the useful life of the garment and their necessarycharacteristics are unaffected by dry cleaning and launderingoperations.

Desirably the edges of the strip are provided with a selvage which maybe formed by fusing the thermoplastic thread forming a componentthereof, by folding and pressing a small edge portion, or by means of aselfselvage.

If desired, the stilfening element may have a shallow S-shapedtransverse cross section (FIG. 5). This form of the element has theadvantage that outward biasing of the upper portion of the element,under the outward pressure of the wearers flesh, Will tend to thrust thelower portion thereof inwardly. In the case of FIG. 4 the result of suchbehaviour is to bias the more or less sharp lower edge of the elementagainst the wearers flesh, Whereas, in the case of FIG. 5, thereversely-curved lower portion results inra more comfortable reaction.

In certain cases a more effective net result may be obtained by curvingthe entire width of the element concavely inwardly (FIG. 6).

It is also within contemplation to utilize a strip of plasticcomposition (FIGS. 7 and 8) which is heat-settable, resilient andgenerally shape-retaining; the strip being desirably rendered perforateby holes 36 or slots 37 for ventilation and avoidance of crepitation. Itwill be seen that, in the case of slots, the same should terminate shortof the curved region in order to avoid buckling due to the peripheralcontour assumed by the waist of the garment as worn. Furthermore, itwill be comprehended that, since the lengthwise transformation of thegenerally flat-lying stiffening element as manufactured into thesubstantially elliptical form of the Waist or other portion of thearticle conforming to a part of the wearers body, will tend to flattenthe curvature initially imparted to the stiffening element, suchcurvature will be initially exaggerated in order that the residualcurvature will yield the desired end result.

lt is within contemplation that those forms of the stitfening elementillustrated in FIGS. 7 and 8 may be formed by extruding the raw materialto the desired transverse cross section.

n some instances Waist band material of conventional forms incorporatesa flat layer or layers of canvas or equivalent fabric as a rigidifyingmember, but these have 'no curved transverse cross section within thepurview of the present disclosure.

Although, in the example, the stiffening element is disclosed asincorporated with the other portions of the waist band, it is to beunderstood that the same may be added to `the garment subsequently. Forexample, when a conventional waist band is incorporated oy the garmentmanufacturer, the stiifening element may be fed to the sewing machineconcurrently. Moreover, in the case of self-fabric Waist bands as usedin ladies skirts the stiftening element may be placed in position beforethe waist band is sewed to the shell fabric.

It is to be observed from FIGS. l, 2 and 3, that the stilfening elementis inserted Within a folded-over edge portion of the shell 2t) of thegarment, and that a layer 14 of conventional textile material, forexample canvas, is positioned adjacent the stiffening element. As notedheretofore, the stitfening element 15 may be against the shell (FIG. 3),or on the inside of the layer 14 (FIG. 2). In either case, theresiliency of the element 15 exhibits itself as an inward force againstthe folded-over edge portion or hem of the garment fabric. Statedotherwise, the stiffening element may be said to push the edge of thegarment against the wearers body, whereby the tendency thereof to rollover is effectively precluded.

While the present invention is described with reference to particularembodiments it is, of course, understood that the invention is capableof embodiments in Varied forms without departure from the spirit andscope of the appended claims.

I claim:

l. In combination, a garment having an inwardly folded edge portion, arst strip of textile material attached thereto and providing a portionof a waistband for the garment, at least a portion of the width of saidstrip being disposed within said folded edge portion and securedthereto, a second strip of resilient, but generally shape-retainingmaterial having a permanently set, inwardly concave transverseconguration secured along both edges to said first strip and having atleast a portion thereof disposed within said folded edge portion,whereby, when the garment is worn, the resiliency of said second stripbiases said folded edge portion toward the wearers body to precluderoll-over thereof.

2. The combination in accordance with claim 1 further characterized bythe provision of a third strip of textile material adjacent said `secondstrip at the inward face thereof, said third strip being secured to atleast said first strip.

3. The combination in accordance with claim 1 further characterized bythe provision of a third strip adjacent said second strip at the inwardface thereof, said third strip being secured to said first and secondstrips.

4. The combination in accordance with claim l wherein said second stripis woven fabric in which the transverse threads are of thermoplasticmaterial.

5. The combination in accordance with claim l wherein said second stripis woven fabric comprising threads of thermoplastic material.

6. In combination, a garment having an inwardly folded edge portion, afirst strip of textile material attached thereto and providing a portionof a waistband for the garment, at least a portion of the width of saidstrip being disposed with said folded edge portion with its upper edgesecured thereto, a second strip of resilient, but generallyshape-retaining material having a permanently set, inwardly concave,transverse configuration secured along at least one edge to said firststrip and having atleast a portion thereof disposed within said foldededge portion whereby, when the garment is Worn, the resiliency of saidsecond strip biases said folded edge portion toward the wearers body topreclude roll-over thereof, and a third strip of textile materialoverlying said folded edge portion on the inner face thereof and securedthereto, said third strip overlying said second strip and securedthereto at the other edge of said second strip.

References Cited by the Examiner UNTED STATES PATENTS 1,494,142 5/24Stein 2-231 1,762,284 6/30 Thomas et al. 2-236 2,121,836 6/38Steinberger 2--236 X 2,601,036 6/52 Liebowitz 2-258 X 2,724,836 11/55Wiedemer 2-132 2,745,107 5/56 Gemignani 2-236 3,129,434 4/ 64 Weemhoif2-236 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

ROBERT V. SLOAN, DAVID I. WILLIAMOWSKY,

Examiners.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No 3Y155,986 November lO 1964 Samuel Eo Miller It ie hereby certified thaterrer appears in the abe-ve numbered petent requiring correction andthat the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.

Column 6Y line 2Ov for "withn first occorrono@W read wirhn Signed andsealed this 6th day of April 1965a (SEAL) Attest:

ERNEST W. SWIDERV EDWARD J. BRENNER Attesting Officer Commissioner ofPatents

1. IN COMBINATION, A GARMENT HAVING AN INWARDLY FOLDED EDGE PORTION, AFIRST STRIP OF TEXTILE MATERIAL ATTACHED THERETO AND PROVIDING A PORTIONOF A WAISTBAND FOR THE GARMENT, AT LEAST A PORTION OF THE WIDTH OF SAIDSTRIP BEING DISPOSED WITHIN SAID FOLDED EDGE PORTION AND SECUREDTHERETO, A SECOND STRIP OF RESILIENT, BUT GENERALLY SHAPE-RETAININGMATERIAL HAVING A PERMANENTLY SET, INWARDLY CONCAVE TRANSVERSECONFIGURATION SECURED ALONG BOTH EDGES TO SAID FIRST STRIP AND HAVING ATLEAST A PORTION THEREOF DISPOSED WITHIN SAID FOLDED EDGE PORTION,WHEREBY, WHEN THE GARMENT IS WORN, THE RESILIENCY OF